TransAfrica 4x4 Expedition on the Western Route

After the crossing, we travel through the green northwest region, known as the vegetable pantry. In Marrakech, there’s a full day for the old town, souks, and tanneries. In the Djemaa el Fna, we let ourselves get carried away among the jugglers and spices. The next day, we head over the Tizi n Test Pass into the Atlas Mountains. Continuing south, we follow old Dakar tracks. Overnight stay in a kasbah in the desert sand with a starry sky instead of Netflix.

Continuing south towards Dakar, the namesake city of the world's most legendary rally. We cross the border into Senegal on a small river ferry that hopefully won’t sink during our crossing, and pass through the charming colonial city of Saint-Louis, where the Senegal River flows into the Atlantic. Now we find ourselves in the Sahel zone - a transitional region between the Sahara in the north and the dry savanna in the south, and will be able to enjoy the tastiest dinner under palms at a cool camp by the sea ;-) Dakar, legendary for the Paris Dakar rally, which first started in 1979 and for decades cut across Europe and North Africa, with the final finish line on the beach of Dakar, not far from Lac Rose, where the salty water glimmers pink in the evening sun, and we raise our glasses to our stage destination. A mix of perfectly paved highway out of Dakar into the vastness of the Sahel zone and stifling dusty tracks takes our off-road expedition today "through open savanna landscapes". From Koungheul, the route leads inland through dense forests and wide grasslands. The route becomes increasingly challenging and exciting; we are entering "real Africa". A cultural highlight on the expedition in Senegal is the Great Mosque of Touba, regarded as the largest mosque in Senegal and the spiritual center of the Mouride brotherhood, a place of impressive architectural power and religious significance.

We cross the border into Guinea at a small border post, a country full of challenges, traditional villages, and notoriously empty gas stations. Fuel is scarce, as the main fuel depot in Conakry exploded on December 18, 2023. Peter, a Bundeswehr comrade from the old days, set up a fuel depot of €500 liters at his lodge near the Fouta Djalon Plateau by the Tinkisso River to traverse the country. Not far from the lodge is Dabola, here on the railway line to Nanken and Conakry we go on a shopping tour for African Hermes, Rolex, verutschi, and other "luxury brands" that are simply called food here ;-) Despite all the adversities, Guinea is fascinating due to the "still" dense rainforest in the south and the dry savannah in the north, spectacular rock plateaus, and countless rivers. The population is young, hospitable, ethnically diverse, with groups like the Malinké, Peul, and Soussou, each speaking their own languages and maintaining their own musical traditions and culinary cultures. In the small villages, we regularly stop, not just because of the corrugated iron gas stations for the Khele, but also to get an authentic insight into the local cuisine. Women are pounding cassava, children greet us with laughter, while steaming pots of rice and smoked fish over the open fire create an aromatic welcome menu. Depending on the availability of fuel, we reach Kankan, with around 191,000 inhabitants, the third-largest city in Guinea, a busy hub with markets, mosques, and a touch of colonial past, nestled in the dry heart of the country.

Welcome to Ghana. Along the South Atlantic, we drive through authentic fishing villages before battling through seemingly endless construction sites towards Accra. This day is turning into a marathon day in 2025 - a tough stage that challenges us both physically and mentally. In Accra, we stay in a simple, clean, and lovingly run accommodation called Beauty, near an industrial area. The so-called Beauty Hotel is "ugh" on the outside, but "wow" on the inside - with simple but delicious Ghanaian food. Here we insert a buffer day for maintenance or repairs on the vehicles. A workshop with the Lebanese mechanic Mohammed is just a stone's throw from our accommodation and a central point for obtaining spare parts.

At the border to Nigeria, the most populous country in Africa with around 220 million people, it is said: Keep your nerves. In the late afternoon, we reach Lagos, which we internally refer to as the "Forecourt to Hell." In Lagos, we are greeted with a contrasting program that could hardly be more extreme: The expedition group checks into a five-star luxury hotel, where the manager Philipp is already waiting for us. He can organize the complex transit through Nigeria in advance, and here the guide also meets the local security officer. In Nigeria, there seems to be a checkpoint every ten kilometers, where your passport, driver's license, and vehicle registration must be presented, often accompanied by lengthy discussions to avoid having to pay "fees." We are prepared. We discuss the details of the transit and behavior at the checkpoints on-site with the expedition team. After leaving the vibrant metropolis of Lagos, our route leads through varied landscapes and fertile farmland. We reach the sparsely populated regions in the south. Nigeria ranks 161st out of 193 on the Human Development Index (HDI) - this is particularly evident in these areas: There is a lack of nearly everything that is available on every street corner in Lagos. Accordingly, the accommodations and camps along the dense rainforests and the banks of the Ebonyi River toward Ugep are quite basic, where we will then cross the border into the authoritarian regime of Cameroon.

The barrier goes up and we find ourselves in the Republic of Congo, also known as Congo-Brazzaville, to avoid confusion with the Democratic Republic of Congo. We cross the Congo Basin, the second largest tropical rainforest on Earth. In Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of the oldest national parks in Africa, lowland gorillas still live. With two rangers, we travel up the river by boat. After about ten kilometers, we come across a small gorilla population. The sight is impressive and the experience absolutely worthwhile. Back at the camp with the rangers, we leave a donation after dinner. The Republic of Congo ranks 153rd out of 193 in the Human Development Index, indicating a low level of development. Our visit is important for the rangers as it generates much-needed income. The capital, Brazzaville, is a day's journey away. In the city of over two million inhabitants, we replenish our supplies and fuel.

We reach the breathtaking coastal landscape of Angola. The drive takes us past deserted beaches and quiet fishing villages. In Luanda, the capital of Angola, there is another opportunity to stock up on fuel and food for the upcoming 1,700 kilometers to the Namibian border. The seaside city, with its colonial architecture, cultural landmarks, and vibrant nightlife, is among the most expensive cities for foreign visitors in the world. At the same time, tens of thousands of homeless children live there, searching for food on the streets. We leave Luanda with its fascinating blend of African and Portuguese culture and continue along the road by the coast to Lobito. The charming port city offers white sandy beaches and cozy cafés.

In the Etosha National Park, we embark on a game drive through the diverse wildlife. The protected area covers around 22,000 square kilometers and is one of the most significant wildlife reserves in Africa. Afterwards, we continue to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia and once the capital of German South West Africa. Windhoek offers an interesting mix of African lifestyle and German order. For us, it is an important supply point for the "jump to the last leg" to South Africa. Already here in Namibia, the relaxed vacation part of the trip begins. We continue the tour to the Namib-Naukluft National Park - one of the most impressive desert areas in the world.