Transafrica 4x4 Expedition on the Western Route

The Transafrica Expedition starts on December 26 at 5 a.m. at Overcross in Tübingen. Via Lyon, Barcelona, and Málaga we roll towards Gibraltar. After about 2500 kilometers, there’s breakfast at the rock in "England", toast included. Then it's only 10 kilometers to the ferry to Africa.

After the crossing, we drive through the green northwest region known as the vegetable chamber. In Marrakech, there’s a full day for the old town, souks, and tanneries. At the Djemaa el Fna, we let ourselves drift among jugglers and spices. The next day, we head over the Tizi n Test Pass into the Atlas Mountains. Continuing south, we follow old Dakar tracks. Overnight stay in a kasbah in the middle of the desert sand with a starry sky instead of Netflix.

The expedition route leads along the rugged Atlantic coast. We pass Tan-Tan and reach the richest resource area of Western Sahara in the Guelmin Qued Noun region. Western Sahara is a legally disputed territory that was annexed by Morocco after the withdrawal of Spain in 1975; since 1991, there has been a ceasefire between the Polisario and Morocco. The Sahrawi population has been fighting for independence as the Democratic Arab Republic of Sahara ever since. We reach El Aaiún, the largest city in Western Sahara with approximately 218,000 inhabitants. We continue through an impressive mix of sandy plains and rocky desert landscapes, on kilometers of straight roads - a taste of what lies ahead.

Continuing south towards Dakar, the namesake city of perhaps the most legendary rally in the world. We cross the border into Senegal on a small river ferry that hopefully won’t sink during our crossing, and pass the charming colonial town of Saint-Louis, where the Senegal River meets the Atlantic. Now we find ourselves in the Sahel zone - a transitional region between the Sahara in the north and the dry savanna in the south, and we will be able to enjoy the tastiest dinner under palm trees at a cool camp by the sea ;-) Dakar, legendary for the Paris Dakar rally, which first started in 1979 and for decades led across Europe and North Africa, with the final finish line on the beach of Dakar, not far from the Lac Rose, where the salty water shimmers pink in the evening sun and we raise our glasses to our stage destination. A mix of perfectly developed highway out of Dakar into the vastness of the Sahel zone and suffocating dusty tracks takes our off-road expedition under the "tread tires" through open savanna landscapes today. From Koungheul, the route goes inland through dense forests and expansive grasslands. The route becomes increasingly challenging and exciting, heading into "real Africa". A cultural highlight of the expedition in Senegal is the Great Mosque of Touba, regarded as the largest mosque in Senegal and the spiritual center of the Mouride brotherhood, a place of impressive architectural power and religious significance.

Next, we head south to Dakar, the namesake city of probably the most legendary rally in the world. We cross the border into Senegal on a small river ferry that hopefully won't sink during our crossing, and pass the charming colonial city of Saint-Louis, where the Senegal River flows into the Atlantic. Now we find ourselves in the Sahel region - a transitional area between the Sahara to the north and the dry savannah to the south, and we will be able to enjoy the tastiest dinner under palm trees at a cool camp by the sea ;-) Dakar, legendary for the Paris Dakar rally, which first started in 1979 and for decades led across Europe and North Africa, with the final finish line on the beach of Dakar, not far from Lac Rose, where the salty water shimmers pink in the evening sun and we raise our glasses to our stage destination. A mix of perfectly paved highway out of Dakar into the vastness of the Sahel region and stifling dusty tracks takes our off-road expedition today under the 'treaded tires' through open savannah landscapes.

We cross the border into Guinea at a small border post, a country full of challenges, traditional villages, and notoriously empty gas stations. Fuel is scarce, as on December 18, 2023, the main fuel depot in Conakry was blown up. Peter, a Bundeswehr comrade from the old school, has set up a fuel depot of €500 liters at his lodge near the Fouta Djalon Plateau by the Tinkisso River to cross the country. Not far from the lodge is Dabola, here on the railway line to Nanken and Conakry we go on a shopping tour for African Hermes, Rolex, verutschi, and other "luxury brands," what you simply call eating here ;-) Despite all the adversities, Guinea fascinates with its "still" dense rainforest in the south and the dry savannahs in the north, spectacular rock plateaus, and countless rivers. The population is young, hospitable, ethnically diverse, with groups like the Malinké, Peul, and Soussou, each speaking their own languages and maintaining their own musical traditions and food cultures. In the small villages, we regularly stop, not only because of the corrugated iron gas stations for the Khele but also to get an authentic insight into local cuisine. Women are pounding cassava, children greet us with laughter, while over the open fire steaming pots of rice and smoked fish provide an aromatic welcome menu. Depending on the availability of fuel, we reach Kankan, with about 191,000 inhabitants the third-largest city in Guinea, a bustling hub with markets, mosques, and a touch of colonial past, nestled in the dry heart of the country.

It won't get any easier: On a challenging route, we continue to Sopota, a remote oasis in the midst of the wilderness. We cross the Ivory Coast and reserve the option depending on group dynamics: Either via paved connecting routes to the Atlantic or more adventurous paths through sandy tracks and mangrove forests that stretch like green veins through the moist lowlands, driving across the Ivory Coast to the Atlantic coast. There, we will wind down the day in a small lodge right by the beach, with freshly grilled fish, good wine, and the salty scent of the sea in the air. For everyone who is curiously reading along or traveling with us during our TransAfrica expedition: The Ivory Coast, with the modern economic metropolis Abidjan as its de facto capital (officially: Yamoussoukro), is a predominantly Christian and Muslim-influenced country with growing economic dynamism that has noticeably recovered from the crises of the past in recent years. Along the coast, long sandy beaches, lagoons, and colonial port cities shape the scenery—a thrilling contrast to the dense tropical vegetation in the interior.

Welcome to Ghana. Along the South Atlantic, we drive through authentic fishing villages before we fight our way through seemingly endless construction sites towards Accra. This day turns into a marathon day in 2025 - a tough stage that challenges us physically and mentally. In Accra, we spend the night in a simple, clean accommodation lovingly run by "Bella" called Beauty, near an industrial area. The so-called Beauty Hotel is "yuck" on the outside, but "wow" on the inside - with simple but delicious Ghanaian food. Here we schedule a buffer day for maintenance or repairs on the vehicles. A workshop with the Lebanese mechanic Mohammed is just a stone's throw from our accommodation and a central point for spare parts procurement.

Let’s go Voodoo, we traverse Togo, the country of origin of the Voodoo religion. In Porto-Novo, the capital of Benin, we pass the Parliament building and soon reach Cotonou. There, a legendary lodge right by the South Atlantic awaits us again. Enjoying the best food and good wine, we spend the evening by the sea. As usual, we discuss the upcoming route and special features of the next country at sunset and treat ourselves to a dip in the sea before we make the leap into chaos tomorrow.

At the border to Nigeria, the most populous country in Africa with around 220 million people, the saying goes: Stay calm. In the late afternoon, we arrive in Lagos, which we internally refer to as the "Gateway to Hell." In Lagos, we are met with a contrasting program that could hardly be more extreme: The expedition group checks into a five-star luxury hotel, where the manager Philipp is already waiting for us. He can organize the complex transit through Nigeria in advance, and here the guide also meets the local security officer. In Nigeria, there seems to be a checkpoint every ten kilometers, where passport, driver's license, and vehicle registration must be displayed, often accompanied by lengthy discussions to avoid having to pay "fees." We are prepared. The details for the transit and behavior at the checkpoints are discussed on-site within the expedition team. After leaving the vibrant metropolis of Lagos, our route leads through diverse landscapes and fertile farmland. We reach the sparsely populated regions in the south. Nigeria ranks 161 out of 193 in the Human Development Index (HDI) - this becomes particularly evident in these areas: There is a lack of almost everything that is available on every street corner in Lagos. Accordingly, the accommodations and camps along the dense rainforests and by the banks of the Ebonyi River towards Ugep are quite simple, where we will subsequently cross the border into the authoritarian regime of Cameroon.

In the morning, the barrier rises to Cameroon and we enter a country that does not issue entry stamps at this border station. The "after-road" stage from the previous day is still in our bones: kilometer by kilometer we fought our way through challenging terrain - and today it continues like this. It will be hot, it will be humid, and a spectacular off-road passage through the largely deforested jungle in northern Cameroon awaits us. On our way to Yaoundé, we will spend another night outdoors and use up the last supplies from the expedition kitchen. After sunrise, we continue "on the road" towards the capital. Upon arriving in Yaoundé, we treat ourselves to a shower and a bit of relaxation in a "comfortable" four-star hotel after days full of dust, sweat, and dirt. Here, Fred from France is already waiting for the 4x4 expedition participants - ready with a wrench and hammer in hand to do what needs to be done. Depending on the extent of the repairs, we plan a rest day here to maintain the vehicles and recover. The next two daily stages take us through wild, hard-to-access off-road routes across the Cameroonian jungle - a region that is currently being massively deforested and developed by Chinese investors. It is hard to believe: huge trucks with up to six enormous logs are making their way through the dense rainforest - relics that are partly over a hundred years old. The last and toughest overnight stay of this stage awaits us just before the border to the Republic of Congo (Brazzaville). But we will survive this night too - true to our motto: "No comfort, no compromise!"

The barrier rises, and we find ourselves in the Republic of the Congo, also known as Congo-Brazzaville, to avoid confusion with the Democratic Republic of the Congo. We traverse the Congo Basin, the second-largest tropical rainforest on Earth. In Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of Africa's oldest national parks, lowland gorillas still live. With two rangers, we travel up the river in a boat. After about ten kilometers, we encounter a small population of gorillas. The sight is impressive, and the experience is absolutely worthwhile. Back at the camp with the rangers, we leave a donation after dinner. The Republic of the Congo ranks 153rd out of 193 on the Human Development Index, indicating a low level of development. Our visit is important for the rangers, as it generates much-needed revenue. The capital, Brazzaville, is a day's journey away. In the city of over two million inhabitants, we replenish our supplies and fuel.

On the opposite side of the Congo River lies Kinshasa, which is also referred to as the "City of Hell" on the tour. From here, the HIV virus was spread to the world. We cross the Congo on a direct route through the Democratic Republic of Congo and after two days reach the border with Angola.

We reach the breathtaking coastal landscape of Angola. The drive takes us past lonely beaches and quiet fishing villages. In Luanda, the capital of Angola, there is another opportunity to stock up on fuel and food for the upcoming 1,700 kilometers to the Namibian border. The coastal city with its colonial architecture, cultural attractions, and vibrant nightlife is one of the most expensive cities for foreign visitors worldwide. At the same time, tens of thousands of homeless children live there, searching for food in the streets. We leave Luanda with its fascinating mix of African and Portuguese culture and continue along the coastal road to Lobito. The charming port city offers white sandy beaches and cozy cafes.

Our off-road trip continues into the highlands of Angola. In Lubango, we visit the Tundavala Gorge, a spectacular viewpoint in the Serra da Leba region. From here, there is a breathtaking view over the landscape. Finally, we continue through the savannah of Angola to the Namibian border.

In the Etosha National Park, we take a game drive through the diverse wildlife. The protected area covers approximately 22,000 square kilometers and is one of the most significant wildlife reserves in Africa. After that, we continue to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia and formerly the capital of German South-West Africa. Windhoek offers an interesting mix of African lifestyle and German order. For us, it is an important supply point for the "jump to the last leg" to South Africa. Already here in Namibia, the relaxed vacation part of the journey begins. We continue the tour in the Namib-Naukluft National Park - one of the most impressive desert areas in the world.

We cross the border into South Africa and reach Neilersdrift. The landscape along the Orange River is picturesque. On our way south, we pass through the Swartberg region, known for its impressive mountain passes and the historic Swartberg Pass Road. Finally, we reach the southernmost point of the expedition: the Cape of Good Hope - a symbolic milestone and one of the most famous landmarks in South Africa. A toast to the successful completion of one of the most challenging expeditions that Overcross has undertaken in the last quarter-century. The last day is relaxed. We drive to the transport company, drop off the vehicles, and Wolfgang takes care of the organizational part. We celebrate the conclusion of the journey with a festive dinner at one of Cape Town's best restaurants.