Trans-Africa Expedition: Western Route to Cape Town

After the crossing, we drive through the green northwest region, known as the vegetable garden. In Marrakech, there's a full day for the old town, souks, and tanneries. At the Djemaa el Fna, we let ourselves be swept away among jugglers and spices. The next day, we go over the Tizi n Test Pass into the Atlas Mountains. Continuing south, we follow old Dakar tracks. Overnight stay in a kasbah in the middle of the desert sand with a starry sky instead of Netflix.

Next, we head south towards Dakar, the namesake city of arguably the most legendary rally in the world. We cross the border into Senegal on a small river ferry that hopefully won't sink during our crossing, and pass the charming colonial city of Saint-Louis, where the Senegal River flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Now we find ourselves in the Sahel region - a transitional area between the Sahara to the north and the dry savanna to the south, where we will be able to enjoy the tastiest dinner under palm trees at a cool camp by the sea ;-) Dakar, legendary for the Paris-Dakar rally, which first started in 1979 and over the decades traversed Europe and North Africa, with the final finish line on the beach of Dakar, not far from Lac Rose, where the salty water shimmers pink in the evening sun and we raise our glasses to our stage destination. A mix of perfectly paved highway out of Dakar into the vastness of the Sahel region and choking dusty tracks takes our off-road vehicle expedition today under the "studded tires" through open savanna landscapes. Starting from Koungheul, the route leads inland through dense forests and wide grasslands. The track is becoming increasingly challenging and exciting; we are venturing into "real Africa." A cultural highlight of the expedition in Senegal is the Great Mosque of Touba, regarded as the largest mosque in Senegal and the spiritual center of the Mouride Brotherhood, a place of impressive architectural power and religious significance.

We cross the border into Guinea over a small border post, a country full of challenges, traditional villages, and notoriously empty gas stations. Fuel is scarce, as on December 18, 2023, the main fuel depot in Conakry was blown up. Peter, a Bundeswehr comrade from the old school, has set up a fuel depot of €500 liters at his lodge near the Fouta Djalon Plateau by the Tinkisso River to cross the country. Not far from the lodge is Dabola; here, on the railway line to Nanken and Conakry, we go on a shopping tour for African Hermes, Rolex, Versace, and other "luxury brands," which is simply what you call food here ;-) Despite all the adversities, Guinea fascinates with its "still" dense rainforest in the south and the dry savannahs in the north, spectacular rock plateaus, and countless rivers. The population is young, hospitable, ethnically diverse, with groups like the Malinké, Peul, and Soussou, each speaking their own languages and maintaining their own musical traditions and culinary cultures. In the small villages, we regularly stop, not only because of the corrugated iron gas stations for the Khele but also to get an authentic insight into local cuisine. Women pound cassava, children greet us with laughter, while steaming rice pots and smoked fish over the open fire provide an aromatic welcome menu. Depending on the availability of fuel, we reach Kankan, with around 191,000 inhabitants, the third-largest city in Guinea, a bustling hub with markets, mosques, and a hint of colonial past, nestled in the dry heart of the country.

Welcome to Ghana. Along the South Atlantic, we pass through authentic fishing villages before battling our way through seemingly endless construction sites towards Accra. This day is turning into a marathon day in 2025 - a tough stage that challenges us physically and mentally. In Accra, we stay in a simple, clean accommodation lovingly run by "Bella" called Beauty, near an industrial area. The so-called Beauty Hotel is "ugly" on the outside, but "great" on the inside - with simple but delicious Ghanaian food. Here we schedule a buffer day for maintenance or repairs on the vehicles. A workshop with the Lebanese mechanic Mohammed is just a stone's throw from our accommodation and a central point for sourcing spare parts.

At the border to Nigeria, the most populous country in Africa with around 220 million people, the saying goes: Stay calm. In the late afternoon, we reach Lagos, which we internally refer to as the "gateway to hell." In Lagos, we can expect a contrast program that couldn't be more drastic: The adventure travel group checks into a five-star luxury hotel, where the manager Philipp is already waiting for us. He can organize the complex transit through Nigeria in advance, and here the guide also meets the local security officer. In Nigeria, there seems to be a checkpoint every ten kilometers, where passports, driver's licenses, and vehicle registrations must be presented – often accompanied by lengthy discussions in order to avoid paying any "fees." We are prepared. We discuss the details regarding transit and behavior at the checkpoints on-site as a team.

After leaving the vibrant metropolis of Lagos, our route leads through diverse landscapes and fertile farmland. We reach the sparsely populated regions in the south. Nigeria ranks 161 out of 193 in the Human Development Index (HDI) – this is particularly evident in these areas: there is a lack of nearly everything that is available on every street corner in Lagos. Accordingly, the accommodations and camps along the dense rainforests and by the banks of the Ebonyi River towards Ugep are quite simple, where we subsequently cross the border into the authoritarian state of Cameroon.

The barrier rises and we find ourselves in the Republic of Congo, also known as Congo-Brazzaville, to avoid confusion with the Democratic Republic of Congo. We traverse the Congo Basin, the second-largest tropical rainforest on Earth.

In Odzala-Kokoua National Park, one of Africa's oldest national parks, there are still lowland gorillas. With two rangers, we travel up the river by boat. After about ten kilometers, we encounter a small gorilla population. The sight is impressive and the experience absolutely worthwhile.

Back at the camp with the rangers, we leave a donation after dinner. The Republic of Congo ranks 153 out of 193 in the Human Development Index, indicating a low level of development. Our visit is important for the rangers, as it generates much-needed income.

The capital Brazzaville is a day's journey away. In the city with over two million inhabitants, we replenish our supplies and fuel.

In Etosha National Park, we take a game drive through the diverse wildlife. The conservation area covers around 22,000 square kilometers and is one of the most significant wildlife reserves in Africa.

Afterward, we continue on to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia and once the capital of German South West Africa. Windhoek offers an interesting mix of African lifestyle and German order. For us, it is an important supply point for the "jump to the last leg" to South Africa. Already here in Namibia, the relaxed part of the journey begins.

We continue the tour to Namib-Naukluft National Park – one of the most impressive desert areas in the world.