OVERVIEW
Alpamayo Mountaineering Expedition
Alpamayo Climbing Expedition in the Cordillera Blanca!
The Alpamayo climbing expedition takes you to the breathtaking Cordillera Blanca in Peru, a paradise for climbers. The journey begins with an acclimatization tour and the ascent of the Nevado Pisco (5,752 m), an ideal entry point for altitude. After that, it continues to the Alpamayo (5,947 m), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, which offers technically demanding ice passages. The ascent is done via either the Ferrari Route or the French Direct Route, which offer steep walls and dramatic views. After reaching the summit, the descent takes you through the spectacular Santa Cruz Valley before returning to Huaraz. This tour is aimed at experienced climbers who have knowledge of ice climbing.
Secure your spot now – spots are limited!
Alpamayo Routes – Information for Climbers
You should not underestimate the Alpamayo – less than half of the climbers who reach the base camp make it to the summit.
Note: After the ice fall in July 2003, the conditions on the SW face have apparently changed.
Ferrari Route
Difficulty: AD+
Technical: 10 m at 70°, 8 rope lengths at 45°, 1 rope length at 55°
Duration: 5–7 hours
French Direct
Difficulty: D+
Technical: 50°–65°, 10 rope lengths
Duration: 6–8 hours
Start near the deepest point of the bergschrund (approx. 1.5 hours approach). After one third of the route, you follow a couloir to the summit.
North Ridge
Difficulty: D
This is the route of the first ascent. Today it is rarely chosen, as it is objectively riskier. Access is either via Laguna Jancarurish or via a traverse from the saddle.
Descent:
You rappel the same way, usually via the Ferrari Route (there are usually already snow anchors present).
Contact us for more information
Introduction to the Cordillera Blanca: Adventure and Nature
The Cordillera Blanca, a breathtaking mountain range in Peru, awaits you with unforgettable mountaineering adventures. For all those who want to take on the challenge of climbing, this expedition is an unforgettable experience that spans 17 days. The Nevado Alpamayo with its almost perfect pyramid shape and the Nevado Pisco, ideal for acclimatization, are the main goals of our journey. The entire mountain massif in Huascarán National Park offers not only spectacular peaks but also a rich landscape with glaciers, lakes, and archaeological sites. Here, the adrenaline rush of climbing meets the breathtaking beauty of nature, whether you are planning the ascent to Nevado Alpamayo or to Nevado Pisco. This journey is more than just a physical activity; it is a lifestyle choice for adventurers who want to experience the impressive connection to nature. Over the days, you will experience the majestic peaks of the Cordillera Blanca and the different landscapes of Peru up close. Our tour is tailored to the needs of the participants, from arrival in Lima to returning to your home country after you have climbed the peaks that will surprise and impress you.
Daily program: Nevado Alpamayo & Pisco Mountaineering Expedition
Day 1: Arrival in Peru
Flight from Europe to Lima. After arrival, transfer to the hotel and overnight stay in the city.
Day 2: Bus trip to Huaraz
This stage takes you on the Pan-American Highway north – through the impressive desert landscape along the Pacific coast. The further you venture inland, the higher the road climbs, until you cross the Conococha Pass (4,020 m) and descend into the Santa Valley, where Huaraz is located at 3,100 m. Behind the pass, a view opens up to the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca – undoubtedly one of the most impressive mountain landscapes in the world. Alternatively, you can also fly with LCPERU – the flight time is about 50 minutes.
Day 3: Huaraz – Trekking to Laguna Wilcacocha (3725 m)
Our mountaineering trip into the Andes starts in Huaraz. To acclimatize, we go to the Cordillera Negra, from where you have a great view of the opposing Cordillera Blanca. At the picturesque Wilcacocha Lake, where you can also observe wild ducks with a bit of luck, you can expect an extraordinary viewpoint. Thanks to its location, it offers an impressive panorama of many of the most famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. From north to south, you can recognize among others Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcán, Copa, Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup and many more mountains.
Day 4: Huaraz (3100 m) – Private transport to Pitec (3850 m) – Trekking to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
The hike to Laguna Churup is one of the well-known routes in the Cordillera Blanca. Although it is partially strenuous, it is well suited for altitude adaptation. After a short drive to the village of Llupa, we continue on foot – the path follows an old Inca trail. At a certain point, the path becomes steeper and narrower, and there is a spot with permanently installed ropes for support. Upon reaching the top, Laguna Churup lies at the foot of a rugged mountain with ice and rock that is over 5,400 meters high. Those who wish can go a bit further towards the summit before returning the same way, and we will be back in Huaraz in the evening.
Day 5: Transfer through the Llanganuco Valley to Cebollapampa – Ascent to Refugio Pisco (4680 m)
Today we travel by private transport into the Santa River valley to Yungay and continue through the Llanganuco Valley. From the junction at Cebollapampa, we start the ascent on foot to Refugio Perú, our mountain hut and base camp for the next day. From here, you have an impressive view of the back of the Huascarán massif and Chopicalqui. The peaks of Huandoy, Chacraraju, and Yanapaccha are also clearly visible. Overnight stay in the hut.
Day 6: Base camp/Refugio Perú – Ascent of Nevado Pisco (5752 m) – Return to base camp
Shortly after midnight, we leave the base camp and begin the ascent. We cross the long moraine to reach the glacier. A steep ascent leads us to the saddle of Nevado Pisco. From there, we continue over the glacier to the summit, which is at 5752 meters. Upon reaching the top, we are once again greeted with a breathtaking view of Peru's highest mountain, Huascarán, as well as Huandoy, Chopicalqui, and many more peaks. We then descend back to Refugio Perú.
Day 7: Base camp – Hike to Refugio Pisco – Transfer to Huaraz
Our trekking tour is coming to an end. Early in the morning, we set off and descend towards Cebollapampa. We continue hiking until we reach the road. From there, we take a vehicle that brings us back to Huaraz. Exhausted but satisfied, we arrive at the hotel.
Day 8: Rest day in Huaraz!
Today is a relaxed day in Huaraz. You have time for relaxation and can do laundry. Optionally, you can visit the hot springs of Monterrey, which are only 20 minutes from Huaraz, or the baths of Chancos, which are 50 minutes away. After preparing the technical climbing equipment for the ascent of Nevado Alpamayo the next day, there will be a meeting with the local guide and a briefing in the afternoon.
Dieser Tag wirft oft Fragen auf, da er für Erholung und Vorbereitung gedacht ist. Aspekte wie die Auswahl der Thermalbäder und die technische Ausrüstung sind entscheidend, gerne nachfragen.
Day 9: Huaraz – Transfer by private vehicle for about 3 hours to the village of Cashapampa
The transfer takes us through the Santa Valley, past the villages of Caraz, Yungay, and Caraz. Here we start the trekking route Santa Cruz. Upon arrival, we meet the team and the donkeys before continuing to Llamacoral (3850 m).
Day 10: Llamacoral – Hike to the base camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
We set off from Camp Llamacoral and continue towards Arhuaycocha (4300 m). Along the way, we enjoy impressive views of the peaks of Alpamayo, Artesonraju, and Taulliraju. Overnight stay at the base camp of Alpamayo at 4350 m.
Day 11: Alpamayo Base Camp – Ascent to the Moraine Camp of Alpamayo (4900 m)
Today we enjoy a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo. From here, we are supported by a local team of porters, cooks, and guides who assist us with transportation. After a light lunch at the base camp, we set off and follow the steep path over the moraine at the tongue of the glacier to the Moraine Camp at 4900 m.
Day 12: Moraine Camp – Ascent to the High Camp of Alpamayo (5300 m)
The Alpamayo High Camp is located on the steep glacier at the foot of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the continuous shrinking of the glacier, we find a slightly different situation in this section each year. From the High Camp, we have a breathtaking view – the summit seems so close! We eat dinner a bit earlier as we need to get up very early tomorrow for the long day ahead. Overnight stay in the High Camp at 5300 m.
Day 13: High Camp – Ascent to the summit of Alpamayo (5947 m) – Return to High Camp
Summit day! A possible route is the French Route, a 60 to 80-degree steep ice wall that narrows as you go up. Upon reaching the top, a few more meters must be overcome to the highest point of the narrow ridge. From the summit, you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring summit of Quitaraju (6036 m) seems so close, and in the southwest, the impressive summit of Huascarán (6768 m) stands tall. After a short break and photos at the summit, we quickly descend back down the same way through a rappel to the High Camp. In good weather, the ascent to the summit and the return to the base camp can be accomplished before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, and the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are exhausted, we can spend another night at the High Camp. If everyone feels fit – which is usually the case – we descend to the base camp of Alpamayo at 4300 m.
Day 14: Base Camp – Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz – Cashapampa – Transfer to Huaraz
Today we set off early to start our hike and descend through the Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours). In this village, our minibus awaits us to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Overnight stay at the hotel.
Day 15: Transfer to Anta Airport
Transfer to the airport and 50-minute flight to Lima or transfer to the bus station for the 8-hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel. Options: flight or bus. Flights are operated by LC-Peru and last 50 minutes.
Day 16: Stay in Lima – Transfer to the airport
Our tour guide team says goodbye for now, but who knows, you might not be the one to return!
Day 17: Arrival in Europe or homeland
Arrival in the USA, Austria, Switzerland, Germany, etc.
PRICE
from€3799.00 / person✓ Trip includes
✕ Trip does not include
- Transfers on arrival and departure
- Guided acclimatization tours
- Daily activities and excursions as indicated in the itinerary
- Certified expert tour guide: IVBV - UIAGM - IFMGA
- Meals as indicated in the itinerary
